There is something about an old sewing pattern that I never seem to get tired of.

Give me an old pattern envelope and a cup of coffee and I can quite happily lose an hour looking at it. I love the artwork, of course, but I also like looking at the little details. The price on the envelope, the way the instructions were printed, the clothes the model is wearing and, sometimes, a scribbled name or note from the person who owned it before me.

You can't help wondering about them.

Who bought it? Did they actually make the dress? What fabric did they use? Did the finished garment turn out as they hoped?

That is probably one of the reasons I've collected vintage sewing patterns for so many years. They aren't simply instructions for making a garment. They are old reminders of how people used to sew and dress.

And once you've handled enough of them, you start to notice that the different pattern companies had their own personalities too.

Some are instantly recognisable. Others take a little more detective work.

So, make yourself a cup of tea - or coffee, if you're like me - and let's have a look at some of the names you're likely to come across when collecting vintage sewing patterns.

Butterick (Founded 1863)

Butterick is one of those names that hardly needs an introduction and if there was a grand old lady of the sewing pattern world, Butterick would surely be her.

It is also one of the reasons home sewing became so much easier for ordinary women.

Before paper patterns were widely available in the form we know today, dressmakers often had to draft or enlarge patterns themselves. Butterick's graded tissue patterns changed all that and made it much more practical to make fashionable clothes at home.

And what a long history the company has had.

When you look through old Butterick patterns from different decades, you can see fashion changing right in front of you. The artwork changes, the clothes change, even the way women are presented on the envelopes changes.

That's one of the things I particularly enjoy about collecting them.

You can put a handful of Butterick envelopes from different years on the table and almost tell the decade without looking at the pattern number.

Butterick produced just about everything you could want - dresses, blouses, coats, suits, evening clothes and children's patterns. There were also designer and couture patterns that are especially interesting to collectors.

Simplicity (Founded 1927)

If Butterick helped shape the sewing industry, Simplicity helped bring it into ordinary family homes.

Simplicity is probably one of the first names many of us remember from learning to sew.

I certainly remember seeing Simplicity patterns in shops and sewing departments. There was something reassuring about them. They weren't trying to be terribly grand. They were there to help you make a dress, a blouse, a skirt or perhaps something for the children.

And that's really what Simplicity did so well.

It made dressmaking feel possible.

The company was founded in 1927 with the idea of making sewing patterns affordable and accessible, and over the years it produced an enormous variety of patterns.

When I'm looking through old Simplicity envelopes, I often find myself remembering just how many different sorts of sewing were done at home. Clothes for children, dresses for everyday wear, costumes, home furnishings and all sorts of things that we might now simply go out and buy.

What Simplicity is particularly good for:

• Beginner-friendly instructions
• Children's clothing
• Home décor
• Craft patterns

Dating Simplicity Patterns

Collector Rating: ⭐⭐⭐⭐☆

Simplicity is also one of the easier brands to date once you've seen enough of them. The envelope designs changed quite noticeably over the years.

McCall's (Founded 1870)

McCall's is another name that turns up again and again when you're looking at vintage patterns.

I've come across so many McCall's patterns over the years that sometimes it feels as though they must have been in every sewing box in America.

The company was founded in 1870 by James McCall, a Scottish tailor, and originally had a connection with a fashion publication. There is little know publicily of this man but I did find an interesting blog about the Life and Death of James McCall here. Patterns were sold by mail, which was a wonderful idea at the time because it meant women didn't have to live near a large dressmaking shop to get hold of fashionable designs.

And McCall's covered a lot of ground.

There are everyday dresses, smart suits, children's clothes, eveningwear and some wonderfully ambitious designs.

One of the things I like about sorting through McCall's patterns is putting several together from different decades. You can almost see how clothes changed from one decade to the next.

The 1930s are so elegant. Then the 1940s bring those practical wartime shapes. The 1950s are all about the feminine silhouette, and then suddenly you're into the much bolder fashions of the 1960s.

It really is like looking through a little fashion timeline.

Dating McCall’s

Look out for

• Designer collections
• Costume patterns
• Fashion-forward designs
• Interesting 1930s and 1940s artwork

Some McCall's ranges, such as Palmer/Pletsch and Fashion Basics, are also worth knowing if you're collecting more widely.

Collector Rating: ⭐⭐⭐⭐☆

Vogue (Founded 1899)

Now, Vogue is a different matter altogether.

Even before you open the envelope, some Vogue patterns have that slightly more glamorous feel about them.

Vogue brought high fashion into the home sewing room and, for many women, that must have been rather exciting. You could look at a pattern inspired by a famous designer and imagine yourself wearing something that looked as though it had just come off a Paris runway.

Of course, making it was another matter!

Some Vogue patterns are certainly not what I'd recommend to someone picking up a sewing machine for the first time. There are some wonderfully complicated designs amongst them.

But that is part of their appeal.

I've handled Vogue patterns with beautiful evening gowns, clever tailoring, unusual construction and details that make you stop and have another look at the pattern pieces.

And then there are the designer names.

Christian Dior, Yves Saint Laurent, Oscar de la Renta and Donna Karan are just a few of the names you may come across.

Dating Vogue

Designers to look out for

• Christian Dior
• Yves Saint Laurent
• Oscar de la Renta
• Donna Karan

Collector rating: ★★★★★

The designer editions are particularly interesting to collectors, although value can vary enormously depending on the designer, pattern, condition and rarity.

Collector Rating⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐

Designer editions are among the most valuable vintage sewing patterns available today.

Advance (Founded 1933)

Advance is one of those companies where I often find myself admiring the envelope before I've even looked properly at the pattern.

The artwork can be gorgeous.

There is something softer about many of the old Advance envelopes, particularly the earlier ones. They give you a real feeling for how women dressed and what was considered fashionable at the time.

Advance didn't have the enormous lifespan of some of the bigger pattern companies, but it left behind a lovely collection of patterns.

You'll find dresses, blouses, coats, suits, children's clothes and special occasion garments.

And then there are the Hollywood connections.

Those are always fun to find.

Dating Advance

Particularly interesting for collectors

• Beautiful envelope artwork
• Women's dresses
• Children's patterns
• Hollywood-related designs

Collector Rating: ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐

Advance is definitely one of the names I would keep an eye out for when rummaging through a box of old patterns.

DuBarry Patterns (Founded 1931)

If you enjoy finding the sewing patterns that women really used to create their everyday wardrobes, DuBarry is a lovely little piece of sewing history to discover.

Founded in 1931 and sold through Woolworth stores, DuBarry made fashionable dressmaking more affordable for home sewists. Their patterns included pretty day dresses, smart blouses, practical suits and garments that could be made at the kitchen table with a little patience and a trusty sewing machine.

What I love about DuBarry is its wonderful sense of everyday charm. The beautiful envelope artwork gives us a glimpse into the fashions, hairstyles and styles of the 1930s, 1940s and 1950s, reminding us of the women who carefully chose their fabric, unfolded their patterns and brought these designs to life.

Dating DuBarry Patterns

Famous For

• Wonderful 1940s designs
• Attractive envelope artwork
• Affordable fashion

Collector Rating: ⭐⭐⭐⭐☆

Hollywood Pattern Company (Founded 1932)

If ever there was a sewing pattern company that brought a little bit of silver-screen magic into the home sewing room, it was Hollywood Pattern Company.

Founded in 1932, Hollywood Patterns captured the glamour and elegance of the golden age of cinema. Their designs allowed home dressmakers to create fashions inspired by the stars they admired on the big screen.

What makes Hollywood Patterns so special to collectors is the beautiful artwork and the connection to film. The envelopes often featured glamorous illustrations and designs influenced by Hollywood actresses, giving sewists the chance to bring a touch of movie-star style into their own wardrobes.

I always think there is something rather enchanting about these patterns. You can imagine a woman opening her envelope, choosing her favourite fabric and dreaming of creating a dress with just a little of that Hollywood elegance.

From elegant evening gowns and sophisticated day dresses to stylish separates, Hollywood Patterns reflected the changing fashions of the 1930s and 1940s, capturing a time when sewing your own clothes was not only practical—it was a way to express your own style.

Dating Hollywood Patterns

Featured Stars

• Joan Crawford
• Bette Davis
• Shirley Temple

Collector Rating: ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐

Hollywood Patterns remain firm favourites among vintage sewing collectors, especially those featuring celebrity connections, glamorous dresses and beautifully preserved artwork.

For me, that's the magic of Hollywood Patterns. They remind us that sewing was never just about making clothes, it was about creating a little dream and a unique one at that!

Mail Order Pattern Companies

Marian Martin

Advertised in newspapers across America, Marian Martin patterns offered practical fashions at affordable prices.

Dating Marian Martin Patterns

Perfect for:

• Everyday dresses
• Budget-conscious sewing
• Practical women's wear

Anne Adams

Another hugely popular mail-order company, Anne Adams who also offered affordable prices.

Dating Anne Adams Patterns

Specialised in:

• House dresses
• Children's clothing
• Women's separates

Anne Adams patterns are often recognised by their charming illustrated covers and affordable everyday designs, particularly popular from the 1930s through the 1960s. Their artwork reflects the changing fashions of each decade, from elegant day dresses to practical family sewing.

Other Popular Vintage Pattern Brands

Style Pattern Company

Produced economical alternatives to the larger sewing pattern brands.

Collector Rating: ⭐⭐⭐☆☆

New Look

later sewing pattern additions - Newlook were ideal for beginner dressmakers.

Best known for:

• Everyday clothing
• Simple instructions
• Budget-friendly designs

Burda Style

The famous German publisher renowned for precision drafting and stylish European fashion.

Known For

• Excellent fit
• Modern styling
• Magazine patterns

Kwik Sew

Perfect for sewing with stretch fabrics.

Specialised In

• Knitwear
• Activewear
• Lingerie
• Children's basics
  

A Quick Summary - Vintage Sewing Pattern Dating Guide

One of the most enjoyable aspects of collecting vintage sewing patterns is discovering when they were originally produced. Even if a pattern doesn't include a printed date, its cover artwork, fashion illustrations, typography, and garment styles often reveal its era.

From the elegant line drawings of the Edwardian period to the colourful photography of the 1990s, each decade has its own distinctive look. Recognising these visual clues can help you date a pattern, understand its historical context, and appreciate the fashion trends that inspired it.

Use the guide below as a quick reference to identify the approximate age of your vintage sewing patterns based on their cover design and styling.

Please remember, dating a vintage sewing pattern is more of an art than an exact science. Pattern companies often reused artwork, reissued favourite designs and changed their branding gradually, so the pattern number, logo, copyright date and envelope details all help reveal its true story.

For me, that is the real joy of collecting vintage sewing patterns- you’re not just holding a garment design, you’re holding a little piece of fashion history, craftsmanship and someone’s personal sewing journey.

I really hope that you enjoyed reading this guide as much as I have writing it.

NB: All of the sewing patterns that you have seen in this guide are our own that we stock on our website.

Happy sewing