Why Vintage Sewing Pattern Sizes Changed

If you have ever opened a vintage sewing pattern envelope, looked at the size and thought, “That can’t possibly be right!” — you are not alone.

It is one of the first little surprises that catches many new vintage sewists out. A vintage Size 16 might show a 34-inch bust, which seems completely different from the sizing we are used to today.

The reason is quite simple really — it is not that our bodies have changed dramatically over the years, but the numbers used on clothing labels certainly have.

The Days Before Vanity Sizing

Many older sewing patterns were based on straightforward body measurements. A Size 14, 16 or 18 was linked to a specific bust, waist and hip measurement rather than the fashion sizing we know today.

Pattern companies expected you to take your measurements, compare them with the envelope, and choose the closest match. It was a much more practical approach, and one that many experienced dressmakers still follow today.

As ready-to-wear clothing became more popular, sizing began to change. Clothing manufacturers gradually introduced smaller size numbers for larger measurements — something we now know as vanity sizing.

The sewing pattern companies, however, often kept their original sizing systems for much longer. This is why a vintage pattern can look surprisingly small when compared with a modern garment size.

Why a Vintage Size 18 Isn't Today's Size 18

This is where many people get caught out.

A 1950s or 1960s vintage Size 18 may have been drafted for a bust measurement of around 38 inches. A modern Size 18 is generally designed around very different measurements.

So when choosing a vintage sewing pattern, the number printed on the front of the envelope is really only a label. It does not tell you how the finished garment will fit.

The golden rule is simple:

Ignore the size number and always check the measurements.

Always Buy Vintage Patterns by Measurements

After many years of sewing, one thing I have learnt is that a tape measure is far more useful than the number printed on a pattern envelope.

Before buying or cutting into a vintage pattern, compare your own bust, waist and hip measurements with those listed on the pattern.

It may feel strange at first to choose a size that looks different from your usual clothing size, but once you get used to it, it becomes second nature.

If you are between sizes, it is usually easier to start with the larger size and make small adjustments during fitting. Fabric can always be taken in — but there is much less room to work with if a garment is too small.

Vintage Sizing Isn't Wrong - It's Just Different

Vintage sewing patterns are not incorrectly sized. They simply belong to a different era and were created using a different system.

Once you understand that, the mystery disappears.

Soon you will find yourself reaching for the measuring tape first, rather than worrying about the number on the envelope. It is a small change, but it makes sewing with vintage patterns much more enjoyable.

And perhaps that is part of the charm of vintage sewing - learning the little differences that connect us with the dressmakers who used these patterns many years ago.

Women

4	6	8	10	12	14	16	18	20	22
Bust	76cm /30″	81cm /32″	86cm /34″	91cm /36″	96cm /38″	101cm /40″	106cm /42″	111cm /44″	116cm /46″
Waist	59cm /23″	64cm /25″	69cm /27″	74cm /29″	79cm /31″	84cm /33″	89cm /35″	94cm /37″	99cm /39″
Hips	84cm /33″	89cm /35″	94cm /37”	99cm /39″	104cm /41″	109cm /43″	114cm /45″	119cm /47″	124cm /49″

Men

Sizes	XS	S	M	L	XL
Chest (at fullest)	89.5cm / 35"	97cm / 38"	104.5cm / 51"	112cm / 44"	119.5cm / 47"
Waist	59cm / 23″	64cm / 25″	69cm / 27″	74cm / 29″	79cm / 31″
Hips	84cm / 33″	89cm / 35″	94cm / 37”	99cm / 39″	104cm / 41″

Children

Sizes	Age 2	Age 4	Age 6	Age 8	Age 10
Chest	53cm / 21″	57cm / 22.5″	61cm / 24″	66cm / 26″	72cm / 28.5″
Waist	52cm / 20.5″	54cm / 21.25″	58cm / 23″	61cm / 24″	63cm / 25″
Height	95cm / 38″	104cm / 41″	116cm / 45.5″	128cm / 50.5″	140cm / 55