Exploring Historical Seam Finishes for Your Modern Garments

Credit: https://www.longancraft.com

Historical seam finishes are a treasure trove of past techniques and craftsmanship. They are both functional and decorative in garments and textiles. Exploring these seam finishes will show you how fashion and garments have changed over time.

In today's article, we're going to discover several main seam finishes used since the 19th century. You can learn the following historical seam finishes both for your Victorian clothing or for your modern clothing! So, join us and start our time journey to unravel the stories behind every historical stitch!

Why Do You Need Seam Finishes?

Surprisingly, a number of historical garments have raw edges on the inside. It seemed like the dressmaker didn't care about a neat and professional look.

At that time, this might be correct. But this method is not recommended, as the edges can fray through wearing and cleaning over time. What's worse, if your seam allowance is less than 1/2″, your garment may shred and come apart at the seam.

Therefore, seam finishes are essential not only for a neat look but also for security.

10 Common Historical Seam Finishes

Now, let's start discovering these historical seam finishes one by one. Each has its unique features and benefits. Try to master them and take your garment-making to the next level!

Hand Whipstitch

As the most used seam finish in the Victorian Era, hand whipstitch is easy and handy. You can use it at many stages of your garment construction.

To make a hand whipstitch, keep the stitches as close as possible, no more than 1/8" apart. Meanwhile, keep about 1/8 to 1/4" down into the seam allowance. According to your fabric type, you can make some adjustments.

It's totally enough to use one strand of thread. If your fabric frays easily or is bulky, you can use two strands of thread. But it's better to change the stitch width and depth instead of using two strands of thread.

With a whipstitch, you can sew both sides of the seam together. You can press the seam allowance to one side or open it, with each half of the seam sewn separately.

Bias Bound Seams

Bias bound seams are an excellent technique to achieve a clean finish on both sides of the garment. These seams use bias tape to bind the raw edges. It's ideal when a little bit of extra bulk is acceptable.

Here is a simple guide to help you make bias bound seams:

• Place the fabric pieces with the right sides together. Sew the seam as usual but with a wider seam allowance.
• Open the seams and press them flat before binding.
• Then, choose your bias strips. The most common type is 1/4" double-fold bias tape. If you prefer to make your own bias strips, you can use fabrics like thin silk or taffeta.
• Start with one seam at a time. Open your bias strip and encase the first seam. Use pins to secure the strip and the seam.
• Stitch along the two edges of the bias strip with a straight stitch. Repeat the step to the second seam.
• When the two seams are all complete, press them for a professional look.

Flat Felled Seams

Flat felled seams were traditionally used for undergarments because they provided a sturdy seam. To create flat felled seams, follow these steps:

• First, pin the two edges with the right sides together.
• Use a 5/8″ seam allowance to stitch along the edge.
• Trim one side of the edge, leaving half the width of the other side.
• Then, fold the wider seam over the narrower one and press with an iron. Make sure the wider edge comes all the way to the stitching line.
• Fold the seam again and press it flat.
• At last, edgestitch the seam in place, and flat felled seams are complete!

French Seam

As an alternative to the flat felled seam, the French seam was typically used on lightweight and sheer fabrics. But compared to flat felled seams, French seams are a little bulky. It may not be that easy to iron and drape them. To sew the French seam, follow these steps:

• Pin the two fabric pieces with the wrong sides together. Use a 3/8” seam allowance to sew along the edge.
• Next, cut this seam allowance in half and press it flat to one side.
• Then, fold the fabric pieces again with the right sides together.
• Use a 1/4" seam allowance to sew again, encasing the raw edge.
• To finish up, press the seam again to one side.

Overhanded French Seam

Also known as overhanded fell or French fell, the overhanded French seam looks like a plain seam. It is similar to the hemmed fell. But differently, dressmakers fold back the fabric on a line with the fell fold and overhand it in a French hem.

Overhand Seam

Often used in linen fabrics, the overhand seam is a historical seam finish. You can also use it to attach lace or ribbon to your garment.

Before you make an overhand seam, make sure the two edges of your fabric are either selvages or creased folds. This means the edges should be finished. If your fabric has no selvages, you can hem the edges first and then use an overhand seam.  

Mantua Maker’s Seam

The mantua maker's seam is an excellent choice for long seams when making a dress or skirt.

To create this seam, first place the two fabric pieces with the right sides together. Fold the new edge a small amount, and then fold the edge again. Use small stitches to sew along the inner edge of the fold for a durable finish. You can also use a sewing machine to make this seam, but hand sewing is best.

Overhand and Fell Seam

The overhand and fell seam is also called overseam and fell, reversible seam, or counter seam. It is often used in undergarments, sails, and ball covers. Dressmakers usually use it for a strong and neat result.

English Stitch Seam

You can only use the English stitch seam when there is a lining. To make an English stitch seam, follow these steps carefully:

• First, prepare two outer fabric pieces and fold the raw edges to the wrong sides.
• Similarly, prepare two lining fabric pieces and fold the edges to the wrong sides.
• Place two outer pieces with the right sides together. The folded edges are outside.
• Place each lining over the outer pieces, right side out. Make sure the folded lining edges are against the folded edges of the outer pieces.
• Use pins to secure the four layers of fabric.
• Start stitching from the outside to pass through one lining piece and two outer pieces, not including the other lining,
• Then, stitch again from the other side. This time, you should stitch through the lining piece which you didn't sew last time. Remember to pass through three fabric layers again, leaving the outside lining.
• Repeat the same process and continue stitching, and you'll have a durable and tight seam.

Lapped Seam

A lapped seam is used when laying one fabric piece over another with an overlap. The two fabric pieces are both right sides facing up. With this seam, you stitch two layers of fabric together.

A lapped seam is perfect for non-fray fabrics to get a neat and flat finish. You can use it to reduce bulk or create a unique design feature.

To sew a lapped seam, place your first fabric piece on a flat surface. Then, lay the second piece over the first one according to the seam allowance you choose. Next, stitch the first row of the lapped seam. Make sure to edgestitch carefully for a clean and professional look. Finally, edgestitch the second row of the lapped seam and finish up.

Conclusion

To sum up, exploring these historical seam finishes not only improves your understanding of fashion in the past but also enhances your sewing skills for modern garments,

So, don't hesitate and grab your sewing tools. Choose your favorite historical seam finish to create a new garment!

Let us know if you found this interesting!

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