Introduction to 1920s Fashion

Fashion and Social Class

Our 1920s Vintage Sewing Patterns.

One thing I've always thought is worth remembering is that the glamorous photographs we usually see from the 1920s only tell part of the story. It's very easy to imagine everyone looking like they'd stepped straight out of The Great Gatsby, but for most ordinary people that simply wasn't the case.

Louise Brooks

The wealthiest women had dresses made especially for them by the famous fashion houses in Paris. They could afford luxurious silks, delicate beadwork and the very latest designs from couturiers such as Coco Chanel or Jeanne Lanvin. They were the people photographed at fashionable parties and society events, and it's often those people that inspired those living more humble lives.

For most women, though, life was rather different. If you were from a working family, clothes had to last. Dresses were often made at home or altered from older garments, and if a hemline went up because it was fashionable, it might also be because the fabric was being reused! A new outfit was a real treat rather than something bought every season. Many women kept up with fashion in little ways instead, perhaps by wearing a cloche hat or adding a string of imitation pearls.

The growing middle classes probably had the best of both worlds. Department stores and the growing mail-order catalogues meant they could buy (and on ‘tick’) smart, ready-made clothes inspired by the Paris collections without paying couture prices. It was becoming much easier for ordinary people to look fashionable, even if they couldn't afford the real thing.

Men's clothing reflected class differences as well. Wealthy gentlemen ordered bespoke suits from respected tailors, while working men relied on sturdy jackets, flat caps and boots that could stand up to a hard day's work. A man's best suit was kept for Sundays, weddings or other special occasions and carefully looked after for years – who remembers all those worn shiny suits as they just had to last.

Another thing that's sometimes forgotten is that fashion changed much more quickly in cities than it did in the countryside. Someone living in London or Paris would probably see the latest styles long before people in smaller towns or villages. Older generations, too, often carried on dressing much as they always had.

To me, that's one of the things that makes 1920s fashion so interesting. It wasn't simply about glamour and glittering evening dresses. It was also about ordinary people making the most of what they had, adapting new fashions to suit their own lives and budgets. In many ways, that's something we can still relate to today.

Women Gained Greater Independence

I've always thought it's impossible to talk about 1920s fashion without first talking about the First World War. The clothes people wore didn't suddenly change because designers fancied a different style. They changed because life itself had changed, and fashion simply had to adjust to these new realities.

The biggest change was undoubtedly the role of women. During the war, millions found themselves working in factories, offices, on farms and driving buses or trams. They needed clothes they could actually move in, not the tightly laced corsets and long skirts that had been expected before the war.

Even though many women returned to looking after their homes once peace came, a lot weren't keen to squeeze themselves back into uncomfortable corsets. It seems they'd discovered there was another way of dressing, one that was practical as well as smart. Dresses became looser, skirts gradually became shorter and shoes were chosen because they were easier to walk in. Fashion was beginning to reflect women who led much more active lives.

The war had also taught people to be resourceful. Clothes had been mended, altered and carefully looked after during the years of rationing and shortages. Although the economy improved through much of the 1920s, most families couldn't afford to replace their wardrobes regularly, so a special occasion was required for many people to acquire a new garment that was in the latest fashion.

When most people think of the 1920s, they picture glittering parties, jazz bands, The Great Gatsby, glamorous film stars and young women dancing the Charleston in dresses covered with beads and swinging fringe. I have to admit, that's one of the first images that pops into my head as well. But the more I've read about the period, the more I've realised those glamorous photographs only tell part of the story.

For ordinary people, fashion was just as much about practicality as it was about style. Most women weren't buying couture gowns from Paris. They were sewing at home, altering older dresses or buying ready-made clothes from department stores. Yet they still found ways to follow the latest trends, whether it was wearing a fashionable cloche hat or adding a string of imitation pearls.

Paris remained the centre of the fashion world throughout the decade. The great couture houses introduced new ideas that were copied across Europe and America, while Hollywood was beginning to have just as much influence. It didn't take long for audiences to want the same hairstyles and dresses they'd seen on their favourite actresses.

There were all sorts of influences shaping fashion at the time. Jazz music encouraged clothes that allowed people to dance more freely, while the bold lines and geometric patterns of Art Deco appeared everywhere from dresses to jewellery. Then, after Howard Carter discovered Tutankhamun's tomb in 1922, there was a real fascination with ancient Egypt. Suddenly Egyptian-inspired patterns, colours and jewellery became incredibly fashionable.

Jeanne Lanvin Design

Another thing that helped spread new styles was the growth of department stores, fashion magazines and ready-made clothing. For the first time, ordinary women could see the latest Paris fashions in print and often buy more affordable versions not long afterwards. Fashion was becoming something that many more people could enjoy, even if they couldn't afford the originals.

Key Fashion Trends

Women's Fashion

One of the things I find most fascinating about 1920s fashion is just how different the silhouette was compared with the years before the First World War. The Edwardian woman was expected to have a very carefully shaped figure, with corsets, elaborate dresses and layers of fabric creating a very formal appearance. By the 1920s, that idea had almost completely disappeared.

The fashionable woman of the decade wanted freedom. Corsets were gradually replaced with lighter undergarments, and dresses were designed to hang naturally from the shoulders rather than being tightly shaped around the body. The famous "flapper" figure, with its straight lines and dropped waist, became the style everyone recognised.

Of course, not every woman dressed exactly like the glamorous images we see today. The flapper look was most popular among younger, fashionable women in towns and cities, but the influence of the style could be seen everywhere. Even women who weren't wearing beaded evening dresses might have adopted a shorter skirt, a bobbed hairstyle or a more relaxed style of clothing.

The changing length of skirts caused quite a stir at the time. Today, a skirt just below the knee seems perfectly ordinary, but in the 1920s it was considered a bold and modern statement. Older generations often disapproved, while younger women saw it as a sign that times were changing.

Evening fashion was where the decade really allowed itself to be glamorous. Dresses were covered in beads, sequins, embroidery and long fringes that moved beautifully as women danced. There is something quite magical about seeing original 1920s dresses in museums today and imagining them sparkling under the lights of a jazz club.

Accessories were just as important as the dress itself. The cloche hat, which fitted closely over the fashionable bobbed hairstyle, became one of the defining images of the decade. Long strings of pearls, feathered headbands, silk stockings and T-bar shoes all helped complete the look. Make-up also became much more accepted, with dark eyes, thin eyebrows and bold lipstick becoming part of the modern woman's appearance.

Men's Fashion

Men's fashion didn't experience quite the same dramatic change as women's clothing, but there were still noticeable differences. The stiff formality of the Victorian and Edwardian eras began to soften, and men started to favour clothing that looked elegant but felt more comfortable.

A well-made suit was still essential for any gentleman. Three-piece suits remained popular, but jackets became slightly looser and less restrictive. Trousers were wider than before, usually worn high on the waist and often held up with braces rather than a belt.

For everyday wear, particularly outside formal settings, men had more relaxed options. Tweed jackets, knitted jumpers and plus-fours were popular for country pursuits and leisure activities. The growing interest in sport also influenced men's clothing, with practical garments becoming more fashionable.

Hats were still an important part of a man's outfit. It would have been unusual for a gentleman to leave the house without one. Fedoras, homburgs and summer boater hats all had their place, depending on the occasion.

What I like about men's fashion from this period is that it managed to look smart without seeming too stiff. There was still a great deal of attention paid to good tailoring, but the overall feeling was more relaxed and confident.

Popular Fabrics

The fabrics of the 1920s tell us a lot about the contrast between glamour and everyday life during the decade.

For the wealthy, evening wear with luxurious materials were very popular. Silk, satin, chiffon, velvet and fine lace were chosen because they moved beautifully and caught the light, which was especially important when women were dancing. A beaded silk dress swinging to the rhythm of jazz music really does capture the spirit of the era.

However amazingly, most people did not spend their lives in evening clothes. Daytime clothing needed to be practical and hard-wearing. Cotton, wool and linen were commonly used, particularly for women who worked or managed households.

One fabric that became especially fashionable was jersey. Today we think of jersey as a very ordinary material, but in the 1920s Coco Chanel helped transform it into something stylish and modern. She showed that comfort and elegance did not have to be opposites.

Men's clothing relied heavily on wool, flannel, tweed and worsted cloth. Tweed, in particular, became closely associated with the wealthy following country life pursuits:  shooting and outdoor activities. Meanwhile, pinstripes and checked fabrics remained popular choices for business suits.

Leading Fashion Designers

When people talk about 1920s fashion, the name Coco Chanel almost always comes first. What I find interesting about Chanel is that she understood something very important: women wanted to look elegant, but they also wanted to feel comfortable.

She moved away from the heavily decorated fashions of earlier years and introduced simpler designs with clean lines and practical fabrics. Her famous little black dress, introduced in 1926, was revolutionary because it showed that simplicity could be just as stylish as extravagance.

Of course, Chanel was not the only important designer of the period. Jeanne Lanvin offered a more romantic and feminine style, creating beautifully embroidered gowns and luxurious clothes for wealthy clients. Her designs were elegant and detailed, showing that there was still a place for traditional craftsmanship.

Jean Patou was another important name, particularly because he helped bring sportswear into fashionable clothing. As people became more active and interested in tennis, holidays and outdoor pursuits, clothing needed to reflect that changing lifestyle.

Madeleine Vionnet was admired for her incredible technical skill. She became famous for her use of the bias cut, which allowed fabric to fall naturally over the body. Her designs had a beautiful simplicity and were inspired by the flowing shapes of ancient Greek clothing.

Towards the end of the decade, Elsa Schiaparelli began making a name for herself. Her more adventurous approach, with bold colours and artistic influences, would become even more noticeable during the 1930s.

Elsa Schiaparelli

Fashion Icons and Trendsetters

The 1920s was one of the first decades when ordinary people could follow the style of celebrities almost instantly. Cinema was growing rapidly, and film stars became some of the world's earliest fashion influencers.

Clara Bow, known as the "It Girl", became famous for her youthful energy and helped popularise the flapper image. Her short skirts, bobbed hair and confident personality represented the modern young woman of the decade.

Louise Brooks became equally famous for her sleek black bob hairstyle. It was a simple style, but one that made a huge impression, and women around the world copied it.

Louise Brooks 'Bob"

Louise Brooks modelling Pyjamas

Josephine Baker brought something completely different to fashion. Her performances in Paris were unforgettable, with spectacular costumes, feathers and Art Deco influences creating a sense of excitement and glamour.

Gloria Swanson was another major style figure. She wore some of the finest creations from Paris couture houses, both on screen and in her personal life, helping audiences become familiar with high fashion.

Gloria Swanson's 1921 film gown with faux pearl beads

Men had their own style icons too. The Prince of Wales, later King Edward VIII, was considered one of the best-dressed men of his generation. His relaxed approach to tailoring, love of Fair Isle knitwear and country style influenced men's fashion across Britain.

Hollywood actors such as Rudolph Valentino and Douglas Fairbanks also inspired men to take more interest in their appearance. Looking well-dressed was becoming part of a person's identity.

Summary

The 1920s was a remarkable decade because fashion reflected such enormous changes in society. Women's clothing became lighter, simpler and much more practical, while men's fashion became softer and less formal. It was a period when comfort began to matter just as much as appearance.

The decade is often remembered for glamorous images of beaded dresses, jazz clubs and fashionable parties, and those things certainly existed. However, the real story is much broader. For many people, fashion was about adapting new ideas to everyday life, whether that meant making clothes at home, buying ready-made garments or adding a fashionable accessory to an older outfit.

Designers such as Coco Chanel, Jeanne Lanvin, Jean Patou and Madeleine Vionnet helped create a new approach to clothing, while film stars and entertainers introduced these styles to a much wider audience.

Perhaps the greatest change was not just in the clothes themselves, but in what those clothes represented. Before the First World War, fashion had been about formality, restriction and tradition. The 1920s brought movement, confidence and a sense that the future could be different.

That is probably why the decade continues to fascinate people today. The clothes are beautiful, certainly, but they also tell the story of a generation finding its feet after a difficult period and embracing a new way of living. For me, that is what makes 1920s fashion so special — it wasn't just about what people wore, but about the changing lives and hopes behind those clothes.