Must-Know Terms for Working with Vintage Patterns

Vintage Sewing Glossary: Must-Know Terms for Working with Vintage Patterns

Vintage sewing patterns often come with their own unique language and techniques, which can be tricky for modern sewers to navigate. Whether you're working with a 1950s dress or a 1930s blouse, understanding these key terms will make your vintage sewing projects more enjoyable and successful!

Here’s a basic glossary of common vintage sewing terms:

1. Basting: Temporary stitching used to hold fabric pieces together before final sewing. It's often removed after the final stitches are in place.
2. Bias: The diagonal direction of the fabric, at a 45-degree angle to the grain. Bias cuts allow for more stretch and flexibility.
3. Facing: A piece of fabric sewn to the edge of a garment, such as the neckline or armholes, to create a clean finish.
4. Placket: An opening in a garment, often reinforced with fabric, that allows it to be easily worn or removed. Plackets are commonly found in shirts, blouses, or the back of dresses.
5. Selvage: The finished edge of the fabric that prevents it from unraveling. This edge is often used as a guide in cutting and sewing.
6. Dart: A fold sewn into the fabric to provide shape, commonly seen in the bust or waist area.
7. Interfacing: A material used to stiffen or add structure to parts of a garment, such as collars or cuffs.
8. Notch: Small cuts or markings on the edge of fabric pieces, used to align seams during construction.
9. Stay Stitching: A line of stitching placed on curved edges of fabric to prevent them from stretching out of shape during sewing.
10. Gusset: A piece of fabric inserted into a seam to provide extra room or reduce tension, commonly found in the underarm or crotch area.
11. Yoke: A fitted piece of fabric that often forms part of a garment’s bodice or shoulders, providing structure and support.
12. Smocking: Decorative stitching used to gather fabric so that it can stretch, often seen in cuffs, bodices, and collars.
13. Gathering: A technique where fabric is bunched together, usually by sewing two lines of parallel stitches and then pulling the threads, to create fullness.
14. Hem Facing: A strip of fabric sewn to the inside of a hem for a neat finish, different from just folding the fabric up and stitching.
15. Tuck: A fold or pleat in fabric, sewn in place, often used as a decorative element.

1. French Seam

• Description: A seam finish that encloses the raw edges within a second seam, providing a neat and durable finish. It's often used for delicate fabrics.
• Steps:
1. Sew the seam with the wrong sides together at a narrow seam allowance.
2. Trim the seam allowance and press.
3. Fold the fabric so the right sides are together, and sew again to encase the raw edges.

2. Overlock/Serger Finish

• Description: This finish is created using an overlock machine, which trims the fabric edge while enclosing it with thread. It's widely used in ready-to-wear garments.
• Usage: Ideal for knit fabrics and seams that require stretch.

3. Zigzag Stitch

• Description: A zigzag stitch is a simple and effective way to finish seams on a regular sewing machine. It prevents fraying by stitching over the edge of the fabric.
• Usage: Suitable for lightweight to medium-weight fabrics.

4. Pinking Shears

• Description: Pinking shears have sawtooth blades that cut the fabric edge in a zigzag pattern, reducing fraying.
• Usage: Often used for quick seam finishes on fabrics that don’t fray heavily.

5. Hong Kong Finish

• Description: A seam finish where the raw edges are encased in bias binding, leaving a clean and decorative finish on the inside of garments.
• Steps:
1. Sew the seam and press it open.
2. Wrap the raw edge with bias tape and stitch close to the edge.

6. Flat-Felled Seam

• Description: A strong and durable seam finish where one seam allowance is folded over the other and stitched down. Commonly used in jeans and shirts.
• Steps:
1. Sew the seam with a wide seam allowance.
2. Trim one side of the seam allowance.
3. Fold the untrimmed seam allowance over the trimmed one and stitch down.

7. Bound Seam

• Description: This finish involves enclosing the raw edges of the seam with bias binding or a fabric strip, preventing fraying and adding durability.
• Usage: Common in unlined jackets and skirts.

8. Turned-and-Stitched Seam

• Description: A simple finish where the raw edge of the seam is folded under and stitched down. This provides a clean look and is suitable for lightweight fabrics.
• Steps:
1. Press the raw edge under.
2. Stitch close to the fold.

9. Double-Stitched Seam

• Description: A seam finish where a second row of stitching is added next to the seam line to reinforce the seam and prevent fraying.
• Usage: Often used in areas of high stress, like underarms.

10. Bias Bound Seam

• Description: Similar to the Hong Kong finish, this method uses bias tape to encase the raw edges. It’s particularly useful for fabrics that fray easily.
• Usage: Common in couture garments for a neat interior finish.

1. Straight Buttonhole

• Description: The most common type of buttonhole, made with straight stitches. It is rectangular and suitable for most garment types.
• Usage: Ideal for shirts, blouses, and light to medium-weight fabrics.

2. Keyhole Buttonhole

• Description: This buttonhole has a rounded end (resembling a keyhole), which allows for better accommodation of shank buttons.
• Usage: Commonly used in jackets, coats, and heavy fabrics.

3. Bound Buttonhole

• Description: A buttonhole made by enclosing the fabric edges in strips of fabric (binding), creating a neat, tailored finish.
• Usage: Often found in tailored garments like blazers and coats, providing a high-end finish.

4. Hand-Worked Buttonhole

• Description: A buttonhole sewn by hand with a blanket stitch or buttonhole stitch, often used in couture or bespoke garments.
• Usage: Preferred for delicate fabrics or when a custom, high-quality finish is desired.

5. Corded Buttonhole

• Description: A buttonhole where cord is stitched into the edges, making it stronger and more durable, often used in heavy or thick fabrics.
• Usage: Ideal for coats, jackets, and other outerwear.

6. Slit Buttonhole

• Description: A simple, unreinforced buttonhole that is just a slit in the fabric. It’s not very durable and is typically used for decorative purposes.
• Usage: Suitable for light or non-stress areas where buttons are more for decoration than function.

7. Round Buttonhole

• Description: A circular buttonhole used for decorative buttons, often seen on children’s clothing or in decorative applications.
• Usage: Common in novelty garments and designs where round buttons are used.

8. Eyelet Buttonhole

• Description: A small round buttonhole, typically reinforced with stitches, used for small buttons or decorative purposes.
• Usage: Suitable for lightweight fabrics or in designs with small buttons.

9. Tailor's Buttonhole

• Description: A type of hand-sewn buttonhole typically found in custom-tailored garments. It’s meticulously crafted for durability and aesthetic appeal.
• Usage: Common in bespoke tailoring and high-end men’s suits.

10. Machine-Made Buttonhole

• Description: A buttonhole created by a sewing machine, usually using a preset buttonhole stitch pattern. It can be straight, keyhole, or other styles depending on the machine.
• Usage: Versatile and used in a wide range of garments, from casual to formal.

11. Piped Buttonhole

• Description: A variation of the bound buttonhole where piping is used to edge the buttonhole, adding a decorative and structured finish.
• Usage: Often seen in evening wear or designer clothing.

12. Invisible Buttonhole

• Description: A buttonhole that is hidden within a seam or facing, so it is not visible from the outside of the garment.
• Usage: Common in couture and high-end garments where a clean exterior look is desired.

Facings are essential components in garment construction, used to finish edges and create clean lines. Below is a glossary of common types of facings and related terms:

1. All-in-One Facing

• Description: A facing that finishes both the neckline and armholes in a sleeveless garment. It is cut as a single piece or connected together.
• Usage: Common in sleeveless dresses and tops to create a seamless finish.

2. Separate Facing

• Description: Facings that are cut separately for different parts of the garment, such as neckline facings, armhole facings, or hem facings.
• Usage: Used when different edges of a garment need to be finished individually.

3. Extended Facing

• Description: A facing that is an extension of the garment itself, often folded over to finish an edge. No additional piece of fabric is sewn on.
• Usage: Typically used on hems or button plackets for a clean finish.

4. Shaped Facing

• Description: A facing that is cut to mirror the shape of the garment edge it finishes, such as a curved neckline or a scalloped hem.
• Usage: Ideal for garments with unique or curved edges where a precise finish is needed.

5. Bias Facing

• Description: A narrow facing cut on the bias (diagonal) of the fabric, allowing it to stretch and curve around edges. It's sewn onto the garment edge and turned under.
• Usage: Suitable for finishing curved edges, such as necklines and armholes, where a smooth finish is required.

6. Interfaced Facing

• Description: A facing that has been reinforced with interfacing to add structure and stability to the edge of the garment.
• Usage: Commonly used in collars, buttonholes, and front edges of jackets to maintain shape.

7. Understitching

• Description: A technique used in conjunction with facings where the seam allowance is sewn to the facing, keeping it from rolling to the outside of the garment.
• Usage: Ensures a neat, crisp edge, particularly on necklines and armholes.

8. Armhole Facing

• Description: A facing specifically designed to finish the edge of an armhole, typically used in sleeveless garments.
• Usage: Provides a clean and structured finish to armholes.

9. Neckline Facing

• Description: A facing used to finish the edge of a neckline, often cut to match the shape of the neckline and sewn inside.
• Usage: Common in dresses, blouses, and tops to ensure a smooth neckline.

10. Partial Facing

• Description: A facing that does not extend the full length of the garment edge but only covers a portion, usually where reinforcement is needed.
• Usage: Often used in areas like waistlines or necklines where full facings might add unnecessary bulk.

11. Fold-Back Facing

• Description: A facing that is folded back along an edge, such as a front opening or placket, creating a clean edge without the need for an additional piece of fabric.
• Usage: Common in shirts and blouses, particularly along button fronts.

12. Collar Facing

• Description: A facing used on the underside of a collar to provide a clean finish and to support the shape of the collar.
• Usage: Found in shirts, blouses, and jackets, where the collar requires additional structure.

13. Hem Facing

• Description: A facing used to finish the hem of a garment, often used when the hemline is curved or when a deep hem is desired without bulk.
• Usage: Seen in skirts, dresses, and coats with shaped or curved hems.

A bar tack is a type of stitch used in sewing to reinforce areas of a garment that are subject to stress or frequent use. It's a short series of closely spaced stitches that creates a strong, durable finish. Bar tacks are often used in the following areas:

Key Points about Bar Tacks:

• Purpose: Reinforcement of stress points in garments.
• Appearance: A small, dense row of stitches that often resembles a small bar.
• Common Uses:
• Pockets: To secure the top corners of pockets, preventing them from tearing away from the garment.
• Belt Loops: To anchor belt loops to the waistband, ensuring they stay firmly attached even with frequent use.
• Zippers: At the ends of zipper openings to prevent the zipper from coming undone or tearing away from the fabric.
• Buttonholes: Sometimes used at the ends of buttonholes for added strength.

How It's Made:

• Machine-Made: Modern sewing machines often have a bar tack function, where the machine sews a series of zigzag stitches in a very short distance, repeating the motion several times to create the bar tack.
• Hand-Sewn: When done by hand, bar tacks are created by making several small, closely spaced stitches back and forth over the area to be reinforced.

Bar tacks are crucial in areas where fabric might be pulled or where small tears could easily form due to stress. They add both functionality and durability to garments, ensuring that high-use areas remain intact over time.

1. Running Stitch

• Description: A basic stitch made by passing the needle in and out of the fabric at regular intervals. It’s often used for gathering or temporary stitching.
• Usage: Suitable for basting, gathering, and simple seams.

2. Backstitch

• Description: A strong, secure stitch where each stitch overlaps with the previous one, creating a continuous line. It's stronger than a running stitch.
• Usage: Used for seams, repairs, and in areas needing extra strength.

3. Whipstitch

• Description: A stitch that wraps around the edge of the fabric, holding two layers together by sewing over the edge.
• Usage: Commonly used to finish edges, sew seams on felt, or attach appliques.

4. Blanket Stitch

• Description: A decorative stitch used to finish the edges of thick materials, such as blankets. It forms loops along the edge of the fabric.
• Usage: Ideal for edging blankets, felt, and other non-fraying fabrics.

5. Overcast Stitch

• Description: A stitch that loops over the edge of the fabric, similar to a whipstitch but often used with more layers.
• Usage: Used to prevent fraying on raw edges or as a decorative edge finish.

6. Slip Stitch

• Description: A nearly invisible stitch used to join two pieces of fabric along a folded edge or to close an opening.
• Usage: Commonly used for hemming or closing seams in lined garments.

7. Zigzag Stitch

• Description: A machine stitch that forms a zigzag pattern. It’s flexible and can be adjusted in width and length.
• Usage: Used to finish raw edges, create stretchable seams, or add decorative elements.

8. Herringbone Stitch

• Description: A decorative stitch forming a cross pattern, often used in embroidery or as a finishing stitch on hems.
• Usage: Suitable for decorative hems or to secure lining to fabric.

9. Chain Stitch

• Description: A looped stitch that forms a chain-like pattern. It’s used for embroidery or as a decorative seam.
• Usage: Common in decorative embroidery, smocking, and sometimes in tailoring.

10. Ladder Stitch

• Description: An invisible stitch used to close seams from the inside, especially in stuffed toys or hand-sewn garments.
• Usage: Ideal for closing openings in sewn projects or repairing seams.

11. Cross Stitch

• Description: A form of counted-thread embroidery in which X-shaped stitches are used to form a picture or design.
• Usage: Often used in embroidery on fabrics with a clear grid-like structure, such as Aida cloth.

12. Satin Stitch

• Description: A tightly packed series of straight stitches used to fill shapes in embroidery. The stitches lay close together, creating a smooth, shiny surface.
• Usage: Common in embroidery for filling in letters, shapes, and motifs.

13. Buttonhole Stitch

• Description: A closely spaced stitch that encircles the edges of buttonholes, preventing fraying and adding durability.
• Usage: Used to create strong and clean edges for buttonholes.

14. Gathering Stitch

• Description: A long running stitch used to create gathers in fabric. The thread is pulled tight after stitching to bunch the fabric together.
• Usage: Common in ruffles, puffed sleeves, and skirts.

15. Topstitch

• Description: A straight stitch sewn on the outside of a garment, usually close to the edge or seam line, to add strength and decoration.
• Usage: Used on hems, seams, collars, and edges for reinforcement and decoration.

16. Basting Stitch

• Description: A long, loose stitch used temporarily to hold pieces of fabric together. It is easily removable once the final stitching is done.
• Usage: Used for fitting, gathering, or marking fabric.

17. Hemstitch

• Description: A decorative stitch that creates a row of small holes along the edge of a fabric, often used in heirloom sewing.
• Usage: Used on hems of napkins, tablecloths, and other fine linens.

18. Edge Stitch

• Description: A straight stitch sewn very close to the edge of a fabric, typically about 1/8 inch or less from the edge.
• Usage: Used to give a clean, professional finish to edges, such as around collars and pockets.

19. Blind Hem Stitch

• Description: A stitch used to hem fabric invisibly, where only a tiny portion of the stitch is visible from the right side of the garment.
• Usage: Ideal for hemming dress pants, skirts, and curtains.

20. Twin Needle Stitch

• Description: A machine stitch using two needles, creating parallel rows of stitches on the right side and a zigzag on the back.
• Usage: Used for hemming stretch fabrics and adding decorative parallel lines.

Basting is a temporary method of stitching used in sewing to hold fabric layers together before the final, permanent stitching is done. Basting stitches are usually long and loose, making them easy to remove once the final seams are in place. Here's more about basting:

Types of Basting:

1. Hand Basting:
• Description: Done by hand, with long running stitches spaced evenly apart.
• Usage: Ideal for delicate fabrics, curved seams, or when you need more control over the fabric alignment. It’s also used in situations where a machine might distort the fabric.
2. Machine Basting:
• Description: Done using a sewing machine, set to the longest stitch length. The tension is usually kept loose so that the stitches can be removed easily.
• Usage: Faster than hand basting and useful for straight seams, gathering fabric, or temporarily securing layers together before final stitching.
3. Diagonal Basting:
• Description: A hand basting technique where stitches are made diagonally across the fabric layers.
• Usage: Often used to secure fabric layers, such as in quilting or when preparing a garment for fitting.
4. Slip Basting:
• Description: A technique where the needle is slipped through the fabric layers, catching only a few threads.
• Usage: Used for matching plaids, stripes, or other patterns at seams to ensure perfect alignment.

Uses of Basting:

• Fitting: Basting allows you to assemble a garment temporarily to check fit and make adjustments before committing to permanent seams.
• Positioning: It holds layers together while aligning patterns, zippers, trims, or other elements that need precise placement.
• Gathering: Basting stitches can be used to gather fabric by pulling on the threads, creating ruffles or fullness.
• Marking: Basting is sometimes used to mark a seam line or indicate placement points for elements like pockets or buttons.

Removal:

• Basting stitches are easily removed by gently pulling on the thread. A seam ripper or small scissors can be used to cut the thread in several places, allowing the stitches to be pulled out smoothly.

Basting is a crucial step in sewing that helps ensure accuracy and precision in the final construction of a garment.

We hope that this basic glossary of common vintage sewing terms has been helpful and if you need any further help, please just ask! 

Dawn and The Team