Choosing Your First Fabric

There is nothing quite like opening an old sewing pattern envelope. The artwork, the little instruction booklet tucked inside, and the thought that someone else may have once made the very same dress. It is a little piece of sewing history waiting to begin again.

But before the scissors come out, there is one choice that can make all the difference to your first vintage project: the fabric.

I still remember vividly the excitement of choosing my first fabric - although I am going back quite a few years now! It was in a small market town called North Ormesby, and I was with my mother, who knew a thing or two about fabric.

I would be drawn to the obvious things first — the colour, the print, perhaps a pretty pattern - and then my mother would take the fabric, gently crumple it in her hand and say, “It creases!”

That was it. If it creased, it was no good!

Looking back, I realise I learnt far more than just that. My dear mother taught me to look beyond the colour and the pattern, and to understand how a fabric would behave - how it would drape, how it would move, and how it would feel once it became a garment.

Those little lessons have stayed with me all these years, and they are just as useful today when choosing fabric for a vintage sewing pattern.

For your first vintage project, choose something that is easy to cut, pin and sew. A fabric with a little structure is your friend.

Start with a Fabric That Behaves

For your first vintage pattern, look for something that is easy to cut, pin and sew. A fabric with a little structure is your friend.

Cotton Poplin - A Beginner’s Best Friend

Cotton poplin is one of my favourite fabrics for beginners. It is forgiving, presses well and stays where you put it.

It is perfect for:

  • 1950’s day dresses
  • Shirtwaist dresses
  • Blouses
  • Skirts
  • Aprons

A pretty floral, gingham or small print can give even a simple pattern that lovely vintage charm.

Cotton Lawn - Light and Pretty

Cotton lawn is soft, smooth and lovely for warmer weather. It works well for simple blouses, gathered skirts and floaty summer dresses.

It is a little lighter to handle than poplin, so take your time when cutting, and use plenty of pins.

Linen and Linen Blends - Classic and Comfortable

Linen has been a favourite with dressmakers for generations. It has a relaxed look, softens with wear, and suits so many vintage styles.

A linen blend is often easier for beginners and works beautifully for:

  • 1930s-inspired dresses
  • Loose blouses
  • Trousers
  • Summer jackets

Chambray - Everyday Vintage Style

Chambray gives you that lovely denim look, without the heaviness. It is easy to sew and ideal for casual vintage patterns.

Try it for:

  • Simple dresses
  • Shirts
  • Skirts
  • Children's clothes

Wool - One to Try Later

Many 1940s and 1950s patterns were designed for wool fabrics. Lightweight wool, wool crepe and wool blends are wonderful for tailored skirts, jackets and suits.

It is worth waiting until you feel a little more confident, as wool needs a bit more care when cutting and pressing.

Fabrics to Leave Until Later

Some fabrics are gorgeous but can be a little unforgiving when you are starting out:

  • Silk satin - slippery and tricky to handle
  • Chiffon - delicate and easily moved
  • Velvet - needs careful pressing
  • Lightweight rayon - beautiful drape but can be challenging
  • Stretch fabrics - require different sewing techniques

There is no harm in admiring these fabrics (I certainly do!), but your first vintage garment should be enjoyable rather than a wrestling match.

Let the Pattern Guide You

Vintage patterns usually suggest suitable fabrics on the envelope, and it is worth taking notice.

A full-skirted 1950s dress loves a fabric with a little body, such as cotton poplin.

A soft 1930s bias-cut dress needs something with movement and drape.

A tailored 1940s jacket will usually need something with structure, like wool.

A Little Sewing Advice

Your first vintage garment does not need to be perfect. The joy is in learning how fabric behaves, watching the pieces come together, and finally wearing something you have made yourself.

Choose a fabric you love, take your time, and enjoy the process. Every experienced dressmaker started with that first stitch....

Happy sewing!