✂️ Are Vintage Sewing Patterns True to Size? A Guide to Vintage vs. Modern Fit
If you've ever fallen in love with a vintage sewing pattern only to be puzzled by the sizing, you're not alone. One of the most common questions vintage sewists ask is:
"Are vintage sewing patterns true to size?"
The short answer? Not by modern standards.
But don’t worry — once you understand the differences, you’ll be able to navigate vintage sizing like a pro.
🧵 Why Vintage Sizing Is So Different
Sizing standards have evolved over the decades — and they didn’t always make sense.
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Pre-1970s: Women’s clothing sizes were based more on proportions than consistent measurements.
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Post-1970s: Vanity sizing began, leading to more generous sizing labels (e.g., today’s size 6 is more like a 1970s size 10).
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Modern patterns: Generally include ease (extra room for movement), while many vintage patterns have less built-in ease, resulting in a more fitted garment and thats why we always state the recommended fabrics. Depending on your level of sewing you can always 'guage' the ease of course if you do decide to choose an alternatice fabric.
🔍 A vintage Size 14 from the 1950s typically fits a 32" bust — today, that would be closer to a modern size 2 or 4!
📏 Compare Body Measurements — Not Size Numbers
Always use body measurements rather than relying on the size number.
| Vintage Size | Bust (inches) | |
|---|---|---|
| 12 | 30 | |
| 14 | 32 | |
| 16 | 34 | |
| 18 | 36 | |
| 20 | 38 |
Tip: Most vintage patterns list bust, waist, and hip measurements on the envelope. Use these to determine fit — not the printed size number.
🪡 Vintage Fit = Slimmer, Structured, Tailored
Vintage garments were typically:
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More structured
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Closer to the body
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Designed for foundation garments (think girdles, slips, structured bras)
Expect tighter armholes, narrower shoulders, and less ease in the waist and hips.
✂️ How to Adjust for a Better Fit
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Compare your measurements to the pattern envelope
Don’t guess — measure yourself honestly and compare. -
Make a muslin (test garment)
Especially for fitted dresses, a muslin allows you to test and tweak the fit before cutting into your final fabric. -
Use pattern grading or resizing techniques
Learn to "grade up" or "grade down" a pattern by one or two sizes using slash-and-spread or pivot methods as shown in other blog here. -
Blend sizes if needed
If you’re between sizes (e.g., bust of a 14 and hips of an 18), you can merge the lines for a custom fit.
🧺 Bonus Tip: Consider the Era
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1930s–40s: Designed for more petite frames and flatter bustlines
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1950s: Fuller bust, cinched waist — very hourglass
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1960s: Youthful, straight silhouettes (often with less hip room)
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1970s–80s: Vary widely, with more ease introduced over time
🧷 Final Thoughts
Vintage sewing patterns are not “true to size” by modern standards — but they are true to their time.
With a few measuring tricks and a muslin or two, you can unlock their charm and sew something truly timeless.
And yes, men's sizing has changed too! Just like the women's;))
